MeshCon 2014 Fashion and Tec Week Berlin

Let's upgrade the garment and textile industry to the 21st century at MeshCon 2014 Fashion and Tec Week in Berlin. The event will take place from 10-15 October at the TU Berlin and the home of the Wikipedia community in Berlin, the Wikimedia e.V.

Today our clothes are produced in unethical ways harming people and the environment. Our community is developing human technologies, and fair and environment friendly concepts for the production of garments and textiles. How can we make it work now with the industry and consumers together? How to reap the benefits of participatory production in the textile industry?

We bring together industry experts, fashion designers, pattern creators, knitters, textile manipulators, Open Source Fashiontec developers and DIY hardware makers. MeshCon Berlin  The event offers a place to exchange new ideas in personalized fashion and technologies in the garment production.

Participants from across the world are joining the five day event at locations around Berlin city. The first and second day we will start with a conference at the University of Technology TU Berlin. In the following days you can learn how to create your own fashion and wearables at workshops at the Wikimedia Deutschland e.V. office. Please join us!

More at meshcon.net

3D Knitting from a 3D Computer Model

Yuki Igarashi, Takeo Igarashi and Hiromasa Suzuki already published in 2008 a way to convert 3D models into knitting models in their presentation in Japanese "3次元モデルからのあみぐるみ生成 - 五十嵐 悠紀,五十嵐 健夫,鈴木 宏".

Video in Japanese: http://youtu.be/xJyZ3XQkrh4

A knitted animal is made of a closed surface consisting of several knitted patches knitted out of yarn and stuffed with cotton. We introduce a system to create a knitting pattern from a given 3D surface model (mainly designed for rotund animal models). A knitting pattern is an instructional diagram describing how to knit yarn to obtain a desired shape. Since the creation of knitting patterns requires special skill, this is difficult for nonprofessionals. Our system automates the process and allows anyone to obtain his or her original knitting patterns from a 3D model. The system first covers the surface of the model with parallel winding strips of constant width. The system then samples the strip at constant intervals to convert it into a knitting pattern. The result is presented in a standard visual format so that the user can easily refer it during actual knitting. We show several examples of knitted animals created using the system.

Computer Graphics Forum - 3D knitting
3D Knitting in Pacific Graphics 2009

3D Kniting - Horse Knits
3D Computer Rendering and Knitting implementation

3D Knitting - Examples
3D Knitting Examples

“あみぐるみ”は閉じた面の内部に綿を詰めることで作られている.本論文では, 3 次元サーフェスモデルからあみぐるみを作成するための編み図を生成するシステムを紹介する.編み図はどのように編んでいくかを記号化したものであるが, 編み図をデザインすることは素人には難しく, スキルをもった専門家がデザインしている.本システムではその過程を自動化し,誰でも簡単に3 次元モデルから編み図を生成することができる. 本システムは3 次元モデルへ等幅のストリップを巻きつけ, 得られたストリップを等幅でサンプリングすることで,編み図へと変換する. 編み図は通常用いられているフォーマットで出力され,誰でも簡単に編み図からあみぐるみを作成できる. 本システムを利用して作成したあみぐるみを紹介する.

Yuki IGARASHI - 3D Knitting Expert
Yuki IGARASHI - 3D Knitting Expert

Yuki Igarashi, Takeo Igarashi, Hiromasa Suzuki. "Knitting a 3D Model." Computer Graphics Forum (Proceedings of Pacific Graphics 2008), Volume 27, Number 7, pp.1737-1743, ISSN 0167-7055, Tokyo, Japan, Oct. 2008.

五十嵐 悠紀,五十嵐 健夫,鈴木 宏正:「3次元モデルからのあみぐるみ生成」, Visual Computing / グラフィクスとCAD 合同シンポジウム 2008 予稿集 , 東京,2008年6月.

Links:

* http://www.geocities.jp/igarashi_lab/knit/index-e.html

* Yuki IGARASHI: http://www.geocities.jp/igarashi_lab/

[via Steve Conklin]

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2D Patterns and 3D Forms - Sensitive Couture for Interactive Garment Editing and Modeling

This paper about "Sensitive Couture for Interactive Garment Editing and Modeling" is amazing and the source code is available (but not with an Open Source license as far as I can see). It is published at ACM Transaction on Graphics, Proceedings of SIGGRAPH 2011 by Nobuyuki Umetani, Danny M. Kaufman, Takeo Igarashi, and Eitan Grinspun. This is the future of pattern making.

Abstract: We present a novel interactive tool for garment design that enables, for the first time, interactive bidirectional editing between 2D patterns and 3D high-fidelity simulated draped forms. This provides a continuous, interactive, and natural design modality in which 2D and 3D representations are simultaneously visible and seamlessly maintain correspondence. Artists can now interactively edit 2D pattern designs and immediately obtain stable accurate feedback online, thus enabling rapid prototyping and an intuitive understanding of complex drape form.(http://www.cs.columbia.edu/cg/SC/)

2D and 3D Sensitive Couture for Interactive Garment Editing
Original: http://www.cs.columbia.edu/cg/SC/

Links:
* Nobuyuki Umetani
* Danny M. Kaufman
*
Takeo Igarashi
* Eitan Grinspun
* Columbia University
University of Tokyo
* JST ERATO
* Sensitive Couture

[via Patrick Proy]

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Arduino and Knitting Machines AYAB Graphic Interface Project

The goal of AYAB-Knitting is to be able to program a knitting machine (currently brother 9xx models) with an image from a computer and extending the capabilities of the machines, e.g. the maximum 60 pixel image width. This is achieved by substituting the control of the needles and required identification of the current position and movement of the knitting carriage is substituted by a common Arduino microntroller, combined with a custom developed shield.

In the last few weeks, we were looking at different options to make it easier for users to work on knitting machines and we came up with an idea to develop a graphic user interface in cooperation with the AYAB project. Sebastian Oliva from Guatemala will work on this project over summer gratiously funded by Google. Thank you!

What is currently supplied:
- A transparent and lightweight API between the client computer and the Arduino, based on 115.2 kbaud serial communication.
- A proof-of-concept python implementation of the client-side of the API (the machine side is in the firmware of the Arduino).
- A simple python commandline application which uses this implementation.

Ongoing work, that will be supplied shortly as the basis for the GUI project:
- A simple PySide (Python+Qt) based GUI application which uses the API implementation, as a proof-of-concept and starting point for further GUI application development work. It will just have the same functionality as the commandline version, no fancy image processing or so.
- A new firmware version for the Arduino with a debug option to mock-up "end of line" events by pressing a button attached to the Arduino. No AYAB Shield, nor Knitting Machine needed for operation.


Video from Chaos Communication Congress 2013 (German), Deutschlandfunk ForschungAktuell

The goal of the AYAB project is to provide an alternative way to control the famous Brother KH-9xx knitting machines. There are some similar projects on the interwebs, such as Knitic or, of course, ladyada's electro-knit. The main drawback behind the existing projects is that they make use of the 930/40 series of the knitting machine - which are still pretty expensive. AYAB uses the older KH-910 model, which is cheaper than the other models, mainly because it features an error-prone scanner-mechanism for reading the image data (but we don't care because we won't use the scanner anyway…). The 930/940 series already use some kind of digital programming, which opens even more ways to hack them, other than what this project did. Normally, the KH-910 is programmed using semi-transparent picture cards which are scanned by the machine line by line. Using this information, the machine sets the needles accordingly to achieve the knitting of the picture shown on the picture card. Probably due to memory restrictions, the machine only supports pictures of max. 60 needles (= pixel) width, although the machine has a total width of 200 needles. At least, it is possible to “copy and paste” the scanned image multiple times to achieve a banner-like usage of the scanned data (useful for norwegian patterns). Now what we achieved is that you can just program the knitting machine with an image from your computer. The restriction of 60 pixel image width has been abolished due to the improved control. You can just knit an image with up to 200 pixel width. [https://bitbucket.org/chris007de/ayab-apparat/wiki/Home]

Links:

* All Yarns Are Beautiful (AYAB) http://ayab-knitting.com
* Twitter AYAB https://www.twitter.com/AYABApparat
* AYAB Wiki and Documentation
* Current stable Version of AYAB
* KH-9xx hardware prerequisites and Arduino shield Hardware
* API and communication with knitting machine
* Needlework Knitting Starter
* Knittic http://www.knitic.com

Media

* http://www.faz.net/aktuell/feuilleton/chaos-communication-congress-bastler-baustler-life-hacker-12729465.html
* http://www.deutschlandfunk.de/30-jahre-chaos-communication-congress-man-kann-sich-das.1946.de.html?dram:article_id=273236
* http://www.deutschlandfunk.de/30-jahre-chaos-communication-congress-forschung-aktuell-vom.1946.de.html?dram:article_id=273322

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Couture Pattern Making Project in Java by Patrick Proy

Patrick Proy started an Open Source Pattern Making project in 2012. While it is currently (and maybe definitely) in pause, it is definitely of great value to look at his development ideas on the web. The project is in java and you can currently still have a look at it here : http://couture.proy.org/software_en.html

Patrick Proy - Couture
Screenshot of "Couture". Display cuts off some parts, but you can see the idea and functions of the application.

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Open Fit: Custom Tailored Pants Patterns with Open Source by Kyle McDonald and Lisa Kori Chung

Open Fit Lab
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lisakori/9246715441/in/pool-2202673@N25 by Lisa Kori Chung

Open Fit is a project by Kyle McDonald and Lisa Kori Chung. Open Fit is open source software that investigates several approaches to generating custom tailored pants patterns. Open Fit Lab is an attempt to use this software for on-the-spot generation and creation of custom clothes. Our first Open Fit Lab will be, Fri. June 28, 8-10 @ 1265 Atlantic Ave. in Brooklyn. We will be exploring rapid prototyping and sewing of custom fit jeans as performance. By the Book is a traditional pattern drafting technique from a tailoring manual. It generates a trouser that is intended to be altered during the fitting stage. Draft From Center is an attempt to make this process more precise, and generate a fit closer to what is currently sold commercially. We are also exploring ways of modeling and flattening patterns in 3D.

Open Fit Lab Pants Project
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lisakori/9116993750/in/pool-2202673@N25 Lisa Kori Chung

How to use Open Fit for non-coders:

1. Download Processing: https://www.processing.org/download/

2. Download two additional libraries:
a) You can find toxilibs at http://hg.postspectacular.com/toxiclibs/downloads/ and put it in the libraries folder of your Processing sketches.
b) Download controlP5 http://www.sojamo.de/libraries/controlP5/ and do the same.

3. To view our work modeling pants in 3D, you will need the peasycam and modelbuilder libraries. Get Peasycam at http://mrfeinberg.com/peasycam/, unzip and put the extracted peasycam folder into the libraries folder of your Processing sketches.

4. Go to http://workshop.evolutionzone.com/2011/04/06/code-modelbuilder-library-public-release/ and look for a link to modelbuiler (0020). Also put it in your libraries folder.

5. The simplest way to grab our code is go to the github repository for Open Fit: https://github.com/kylemcdonald/OpenFit Extract and put the zip file you like into your Processing folder.

6. When you open up a sketch in processing you will see two buttons on the top left, Run and Stop. This is how you run and stop the code. Currently, you can change the measurements two ways. You can run the sketch and click on the numberboxes to scroll through possible measurements. The variables at the beginning of the code in Draft from Center and By the Book are the measurements that the code will initially draw the pants from. You can type in new numbers here and re-run the sketch.

Open Fit Lab Measurement Guide
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lisakori/9265136998/in/set-72157634283502022 Open Fit Lab Measurement Guide

Links:

* Open Fit http://openfitlab.com
* Lisa Kori Chung http://www.lisakori.net
* An assortment of travels through electronic art by Lisa Kori Chung http://themediumandthemayhem.net
* Kyle McDonald http://www.kylemcdonald.net/

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Cross Stitching Software by Nathan J. Hurst

I came across an interesting project from Nathan J. Hurst about cross stitching. I have no idea when he published the program, but it looks pretty nice for people who are interested in cross stitching.

The latest version is here: cs-0.9.6.tgz (Works with new PILs; nicer and more icons - Robert Smies)

Cross Stitching Software

Check out this page for a tutorial how to use it as well: http://njhurst.com/programming/cross-stitch/

Installation instructions:

Install PIL. On Debian this means "apt-get install python-imaging". The program has no interface or options. Just run it like this:

cd cs-0.9.4/
python xs.py file.png

xFig is recommended for laying out the printer ready form.

About Nathan: "I am a modern day Renaissance man with interests ranging from mathematics, through computer science and the physical sciences through to music and art, how we live in cities, and teaching problem solving. I'm currently living in Seattle, USA" [njhurst.com]

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Mosaic Knitting Pattern Generator with Processing.js

Processing.js is pretty cool.I found a Mosaic Knitting Pattern Generator from Laura Kogler.

This is a script to generate patterns intended to be knit using the two-color knitting technique known as "mosaic", or "slip-stitch", knitting. If you make something using this pattern generator, I'd love to know about it! You can email me (me[at]laurakogler.net), or hit me up on ravelry!

Mosaic Knitting Pattern Generator

Links:

http://processingjs.org

http://laurakogler.net/processing/MosaicKnitting/

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How to make a Pattern Editor - GeoGebra as an Example

Check out the new GeoGebra Google app. It has the exact functionality which the pattern editor should have:

GeoGebra is dynamic mathematics software for education in secondary schools that joins geometry, algebra, and calculus. On the one hand, GeoGebra is a dynamic geometry system. You can do constructions with points, vectors, segments, lines, conic sections as well as functions and change them dynamically afterwards. On the other hand, equations and coordinates can be entered directly. Thus, GeoGebra has the ability to deal with variables for numbers, vectors and points, finds derivatives and integrals of functions, and offers commands like Root or Extremum. It is a free and open source software.

Links:

[via Susan Spencer]

 

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Machine Knitting with Fabienne Serriere

Another video about machine knitting with brother machines with Fabienne Serriere from by Sam Muir in "Spring time" in Berlin 2012/13, which rather looks like winter though still ;-)

Machine Knitting with FBZ: Part II - In Deep Knit from Sam Muirhead.

This winter has been the longest and darkest in Berlin since 1951, so last month I paid another visit to Fabienne Serrière (FBZ) who you might recall from my earlier video as a hardware hacker and machine knitter extraordinaire. This time I had something of my own I wanted to knit. Inspired by Fabienne and Becky Stern and everybody else involved in hacking these machines, who built upon the work of others and then put their own improvements into the commons, I decided to draw on the commons to create an open source hat. ... One of many images from Snowflakes: a Chapter from the Book of Nature (1863) on the Public Domain Review. These images are certainly beautiful, but that was 1863, we’ve moved on a bit since then. Now, thanks to the aid of modern technology, we can finally present these snowflakes as the artist would have envisioned them, in glorious 1-bit duocolor [http://yearofopensource.net/snowflake-hat/]

Knitting Hat from Brother Knitting Machines
Knitted Snowflakes from:  Snowflakes: a Chapter from the Book of Nature (1863)

Two files to help reproduce the work are attached to this entry or check out the original guides below.

Links

License: You also have permission to make, alter, improve or sell this hat, under the Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike license.

Amazing Knitting Machine Hack Glitch Knit by Japanese

I found an amazing Knitting Machine Hack and production system by some Japanese artists and developers online called Glitch Knit. The team brings together Nukeme, a hardware engineer Tomofumi YOSHIDA, the software engineer So KANNO and a supporting member Emi YAMAMOTO.

The team uses a brother KH970 knitting machine, which was produced until 2005 and was discontinued afterwards. The parts list for hacking the machine:
* Arduino Due
* Connector : MicroBlade™ 53014-0810
* Photo interrupter : Sharp GP1S58VJ000F or compatibles
* Transistor Array : TD6208APG or compatibles

PCB
The team made circuit boards with a paperboard for prototyping with Adobe Illustrator and a Laser Cutter.

Source Code
The source code is available at Github here: github.com/sokanno/KnitHack

GlitchKnit Knitting Machines Hack
GlitchKnit Set up

Software GlitchKnit Knitting Machines Hack
GlitchKnit Software

GlitchKnit Knitting Products
Glitch Knit Outcome

From the website description: This project divided into two main content. Firstly, by hacking a knitting machine, exposing the environment that can be output an image as knit by anyone. Secondly, by using the knitting machine that we hack, to make a “Glitch Knit”. The glitch is "damaged of data or machinery" and "damaged data but possible to play". The “Glitch Knit” has two different way. One is output of the digital image data which was glitched. The other is to damage the structure of lace knit. It is output as knit full of holes. Knitting machine that is hacked, is introduced as a new equipment in FabLabShibuya, and how to hack is also published on Github and Instructables. In this project, knit work is also the work, and the environment itself for making the knit is also work. This is a kind of digital fabrication, extension of the handicraft, and device hacking. And more this is the one of methodology for fashion design and a thing descended the glitch movement. (http://www.glitchknit.jp/#about)

このプロジェクトは、内容としては大きく2つに分かれています。1つ目は、ニッティングマシーンをハックし、誰でも画像をニットとして出力できる環境を公開すること、2つ目は、ハックしたニッティングマシーンを使ってグリッチニットを作ることです。 グリッチとは、”機械やデータの破損そのもの”や、”破損しているけれど再生が可能な状態”のことを指します。 グリッチニットの制作方法は2つあります。1つはグリッチした画像データを、ニットとして出力したもの。もう1つはレース編みの構造を破綻させ、穴だらけのニットとして出力したものです。 ハックしたニッティングマシーンは、FabLabShibuyaに新たな機材として導入され、そのハックの方法も含めて公開されています。 このプロジェクトでは、ニット作品も作品であり、ニット作品を作るための環境自体もまた、作品です。 これはデジタル・ファブリケーションの一種であり、手芸の延長であり、デバイス・ハッキングでもあり、かつ、グリッチ・ムーブメントの流れを汲んだもので、そしてファッション・デザインのための一つの方法論です。

Team:
Designer: Nukeme nukeme.nu
Hardware engineer: Tomofumi YOSHIDA techno-shugei.com
Software engineer: So KANNO kanno.so / kanno.so/glitch-knit/
Support: Emi YAMAMOTO www.fablabshibuya.org
Links
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Electronic Textile Institute: Designer Maker Community in Berlin

I read about the people from the Electronic Textile Institute in Berlin already a while ago. I was excited to have the chance to meet Victoria Pawlik in the space in Berlin Wedding on Saturday together with Andre Rebentisch from the Berlin Startup community.

Victoria Pawlik, Berlin Electronic Textile Institute
Victoria Pawlik at Electronic Textile Institute (etib.org)

The group working at the space is still small, but the projects they are doing are already very exciting. Victoria studied fashion design and uses the places as a creative space to develop ideas and produce cloth designs, which she sells at community markets and online shops like VLP-Designs at Dawanda and RedPinkGreen at Etsy.


Electronic Textile Institute Berlin with Mario Behling and Victoria Pawlik
Electronic Textile Institute Berlin

Other people at the space are coming from the IT and hackers community. Fabienne is known for her involvement into Open Source and Open Hardware. She likes to hack into knitting machines and creates incredible patterns, that are unique in every aspect. One of the designs at the shop is particularly interesting as none of the pattern parts repeat itself.

By Open-Sourcing older Brother knitting machines and connecting a PC to a machine Fabienne was able to enhance the functioning and extend the functionalities beyond the original one.

Brother CK-35, Knitting Machine with Open Source
Brother CK-35, Open Sourced Knitting Machine

Fabienne Serriere, Knitting Pattern, Electronic Textile Institute Berlin
Knitting Pattern of Fabienne Serriere, Electronic Textile Institute Berlin

Electronic Textile Institute Berlin wit Victoria Pawlik and Andre Rebentisch
Electronic Textile Institute Berlin with Victoria Pawlik and Andre Rebentisch

Links:

Internet Startup Companies Will Find Haven in Berlin

Germany’s mobile internet advertising is on the rise. Bundesverband Digitale Wirtschaft (BVDW) said in its MAC Mobile-Report 2013/01 that Germany’s mobile ad spending reached €62 million in 2012. This figure is expected to rise by 70% or €105 million before 2014. This is one big reason why many local companies are switching to go online. Mobile internet in Germany is now on its all-time high, and a lot of businesses already jumped ship by pushing some of their advertisements to the mobile market. If you’re an owner of a startup company, you might have heard lots of advice about online business. However, you may not have yet heard this advice from others: if you want to start a business in Germany, the best place for you to start is Berlin.

Berlin

Aside from thousands of local German firms starting their online businesses in Berlin, companies from London, Venice, Paris, and other European cities think that Berlin is the next biggest hub for online ventures, thus starting a movement called the “Berlin Startup Scene”. Among the ventures that found paradise in Berlin are Mountain, Rocket Internet GmbH, photo sharing app EyeEM, and mobile messenger app Zoobe. These companies started with a very small number of employees but have since expanded after trying their luck in Berlin. The Berlin Startup Scene goes like this: starting companies open their business with a capital ranging from €75,000 to €377,000 and with a very good business concept, the particular business will be given the chance to grow through financial aids from bigger German companies who can see the potential of their ventures.

News of Berlin as a great techno hub has spread all over the globe. Even some companies in the United States—which is perceived by many economies as one of the centres for mobile growth—are predicted to try their luck in Germany. Bally Technologies and iSoftbet, two of the biggest gaming technology providers in the US, teamed up to conquer Germany and other European nations. Under the agreement, the two software companies will form a united front to bring online slot machines and other betting games in the Eurozone. Their gaming applications won’t have a hard time penetrating the European market as people there are also fond of mobile games like poker, bingo, casino, and lottery. This is mainly because of the German government’s efforts to help local or foreign websites in fulfilling their goals.

If you are looking for a place to start your online project, you should take a chance in Berlin. Who knows, you might just find your luck there?

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Personal Manufacturing - Knitting Printer

Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet Sola gave a presentation about personal manufacturing and knitting, which they published on Slideshare.

Varvara Guljajeva is an artist working in the field of art and technology. Varvara has exhibited her art pieces in a number of international shows and festivals. The artist was selected for the residency at FFKD, IAMAS, EMARE (FACT, Liverpool), Crida, MU Gallery, Verbeke Foundation, Marginalia+Lab, Seoul Art Space Geumcheon, and more.

Mar Canet Sola is an artist, researcher who likes to write software exploring new ways of playfulness and expression, inspired in digital age. I am working in computer games, data visualization and new media art installations. He is a co-founder of the art collective Derivart, working in the intersection between finance, art and technology. He is also co-founder of Lummo, a small studio of new media architecture and working as an artist-duo with Varvara Guljajeva.

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